An incredible showcase for the appellation, this combines grapes from the producer’s estate Westside Farms with Dutton, Woolsey Road and Rochioli Allen, among others. Together it is broadly floral, earthy and richly integrated, with depth and complexity, the acidity vibrantly fresh.

David Ramey blends this wine from a selection of five sites planted from 1978 to 2006—the biggest contribution from Westside Farms. He ferments the wine spontaneously in François Frères and Taransaud barrels (15 percent new) and the integration of that oak is impressive, allowing the wine’s coastal freshness to provide the dominant impression. Scents of honeysuckle and ginger brighten the wine, while the leesiness adds complexity, with an iodine note and a lasting, intriguing tension.

Readers who like classic, impeccably made, authentic California Chardonnay should jump on the 2018 Chardonnay Russian River Valley as it doesn't shy away from its California fruit yet is balanced, fresh, and lengthy. Stone fruits, honeyed toast, baking spice, and hints of tropical flowers emerge from the glass, and this medium-bodied, textured 2018 will drink well for at least 7-8 years.

The 2018 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is youthfully shy, hinting at stone, apricot and white blossoms. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied, uber silky and minerally with great freshness and a long finish. 13,340 cases produced.