This is an impressively rich nonvintage selection, with tropical fruit as well as a mineral-driven character. It's impressive and would certainly take more bottle aging.

Subtle hints of toast and cream add depth to fruity flavors of green pear, apple, white peach and lemon meringue, while a mineral thread and racy acidity focus the wine through to the crisp finish. Disgorged February 2011. Drink now through 2016.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Premier Cru Selection Belles Annees is a touch softer and more generous than the Premier Cru Cuis, but without abandoning what is essentially a tightly focused, laser-like voice in the fruit. This, too, shows tons of energy and vibrancy all the way through to the sinewy, long finish. The Belles Annees is a blend of fruit from Chouilly, Cramant, Cuis and Oger, 60% 2004, 40% 2005. Disgorged May 10, 2010 and bottled with 7 grams of dosage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.